Visible red light is leading the way for rejuvenating facials

Go for red light

From wrinkles to cold sores, red light therapy is the latest trick to save your face

By Alice Smellie for The Mail on Sunday


The weather may be freezing, the days still short, but there is now light — red light — at the end of the tunnel. The power of red light was originally harnessed by NASA, which proved that it helped to heal wounds and burns, and it has been used successfully for the treatment of skin cancer.

As with many medical breakthroughs, the cosmetic benefits of red light subsequently emerged and it’s now becoming widely available in High Street salons and shops.

We’ve all heard of infra-red light, which is invisible. But the fast-growing trend is for visible red light — a gentle and effective way of healing and rejuvenating skin.

"Red light easily penetrates the dermis and can help with a variety of skin conditions, such as acne, rosacea, scarring and eczema, as well as improving skin quality," says Jo Martin, clinical director of Mapperley Park Clinic and an expert in light therapy and laser treatments.

"The light promotes circulation, bringing more blood and nutrients to the area," she explains. "It also instigates the release of chemical messengers called cytokines. As more cytokines are released, collagen producing cells called fibroblasts leap into action. If healing is required, then the skin will heal; if it is already healthy, you will get a plumping effect from the extra collagen created."

Visible red light is leading the way for rejuvenating facials This month, big brands such as CACI are harnessing the power of red light and rolling out affordable salon therapies nationwide. Their Wrinkle Revolution (£40, ) is a 20-minute treatment that combines red light with

Cosmetic dermatologist Dr Hilary Allan, who uses red light extensively within her clinics, has seen a huge growth in the number of home treatment systems. ‘Everyone is leaping on the red light bandwagon,’ she says. 

So what are the stand-out at-home products? The new Fine-Light Mask by Innovate Photonics ( is the priciest at £400. It claims to stimulate collagen and plump up fine lines, as well as giving a lifting effect by increasing elastin production. Put on the protective goggles and lower it over your entire face to bathe in warming red light for 20 minutes a day.

What separates an at-home device from a clinical therapy is the strength of the light used. "A salon treatment may blast you with red light delivered through 1,800 separate LEDs, but a hand-held device will use fewer — more like 40," says Louise Taylor of Serious About Skin, specialists in light therapy. "The light has to be absorbed for a minimum of 15 minutes but they should all give some benefit," she adds.